Solid wall internal insulation

[ady555]

Need a bit advice how to insulate solid wall, no property attached to it on that side and it has external render.

Some say I should leave gap between insulation and some don't. To make my life easier I decided to use battens on that wall and not dot and dab due to wall going up above stairs ect., I am going to be limited with space so ideally wanted 25mm battens every 400mm vertically but here is the question.

Can I use rockwool insulation between battens on to bricks then attached plasterboard to battens or do I need to leave space between rockwool and bricks.

Thanks

 

[^woody^]

Rockwool won't comply with building regulations unless it's over 200mm thick.

There should be no cavity and no voids when insulating internally.

 

[drpepe]

Insulated plasterboard and soudal plasterboard adhesive seems to be a common method. Just did this in my house (I’m a diyer).

 

[ady555]

Rockwool won't comply with building regulations unless it's over 200mm thick.

There should be no cavity and no voids when insulating internally.

Intrestesing, so how would you dot and dab if going with insulated boards for example, this creates space behind boards

Or we talking about the likes of kingspan between battens? I honestly get bit confused what it should be used but at the same time is not always possible in old houses due to space ect.

 

[ady555]

Insulated plasterboard and soudal plasterboard adhesive seems to be a common method. Just did this in my house (I’m a diyer).

That's foam adhesive? I used this before and never again, walls aren't straight enough hence prefer dot and dab, easier to get on with.

 

[noseall]

Intrestesing, so how would you dot and dab if going with insulated boards for example, this creates space behind boards

He means there should be no movement of air behind the plasterboards. Despite what people think about dabbing boards, i.e. a few randomly placed blobs of adhesive, the truth is different. Boards should have a solid perimeter bead around the edge of the board and two solid lines of dab (8"x4"s) up the centre and all switch boxes should be surrounded resulting in zero air movement...

Dabber1

• noseall
• 9 Dec 2018

Untitled

• noseall
• 15 Aug 2014
• 3

 

[ady555]

He means there should be no movement of air behind the plasterboards. Despite what people think about dabbing boards, i.e. a few randomly placed blobs of adhesive, the truth is different. Boards should have a solid perimeter bead around the edge of the board and two solid lines of dab (8"x4"s) up the centre and all switch boxes should be surrounded resulting in zero air movement...

Dabber1

• noseall
• 9 Dec 2018

Untitled

• noseall
• 15 Aug 2014
• 3

Phew I was thinking he was on about no space at all behind board, that's how I done downstairs dot and dab, so yeah I could go with that.

So what kind of thickness we talking about insulated boards? 25mm/50mm? I be pushing my luck with 50mm plus plasterboard due to staircase going up. I still think placing battens then insulation boards between it will be easier on that wall for me. Even if I have to place battens then fit insulation board between.

My moto is better to have some insulation then none if you know what I mean.