Recent content by chirpychippy

Thank you opps, my mistake it's an IM65 I have not the A, Yesterday I nailed a board to baton to see what the hold is like with the physical force of then trying to pull them apart, not to bad... I think batons at 450 centres as appose to 500 or 600 will produce better results. There have...

Same question as in previous post but asked a different way. To fit the cladding I need 2.5mm x 60mm Annular Ringed nails. Now I have a Hitachi 1st Fix nail gun which I think could be compatible with this nail or a Paslode IM65 which I'm sure isn't. Does anyone have experience if this nail...

The bottom of my garden is quite sheltered so wind isn't really an issue. Next weekend I'm going to clad my "Summer House" "I find this term pretentious - let's say Man Cave. The cladding is t&g Thermowood "Softwood" the fixing options are 18g Nails or Screws, in either case they have to be...

You need a "Ceiling Filler" it closes the gap between the the top of the wall and ceiling, or in your case the bottom of the coving. You will need a 6mm mdf board a length of baton and a vent. Screw the batton to the top of the units in line with the front of the boxing above, the metal flexi...

The thing to understand about worktop joints is, regardless of which adhesive you use,to seal the joint, the adhesive/sealant does not guarantee a water proof joint. The joint is water resistant. It takes just a pin prick gap for standing water to seep through and blow the joint. This is why...

The male part of the joint won't have the laminate edge but the female will. If you leave the laminate edge on the female the top surface of the male joint will be a slightly above the edging of the female as the top of edging has a slight radius. This will definitely chip through use, you...

Mottie, Fit the kitchen parralel to the walls. You could try and fit it so it's square but what you'll end up with is a tapered worktop, which is often seen in the margin behind the sink or hob and can become annoying. The worktop Chaps will just do an out of square worktop join which won't show.

The build is under way, started this in Jan "I think, can't quite remember"....its not on a slab for reasons discussed, but there are alot of concrete piers in the ground. The frame is on a double 5x2 ring beam, frame is 4x2 c24, joists are 6x2 c24 at 16 inch centers, with furrings then 18mm...

This might be a stupid idea, can't the leaves of the hinges be turned so the door only opens out? Then you can stop the door opening in.

You could try Rustins Plastic Coating.

You are pushing water up a hill with a fork siliconing the shed. You won't stop the ingress of water either as the capillary action of water will ensure any gap vertical or horizontal or otherwise will allow water in and to climb. You could add additional timber to roof edges to create a verge...

This is mine as it is at the moment, the subsoil has a damp proof membrane covering it held with many slabs. All timber that is in contact with concrete blocks has been dunked in bitumen and wrapped in a dpc, but in such a way that rain water can drain. All timber that is in contact with the...

I like to put them in my back pocket, both at lunch time and at the end of the day my one pencil becomes two, when I sit in the van...always a silver lining....

Well it depends, if the silicone has detached itself from the worktop to upstand then you'll have moisture between the two surfaces. Remove all of the silicone, warm area with hairdryer to assist drying, cover area with towel and allow to dry for a few days. When you re silicone, the silicone...

You can try and get a magic man to repair it, but that'll cost upwards of 500 big ones.